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Saturday, June 23, 2012

The Yangtze River Experience


I had recently completed the Yangtze cruise. To be honest, even though I am not a fan of river boat cruise, or any cruises in that matter, there isn’t any other alternatives if your holiday is limited to your work schedule, but desire to see both the Yangtze three gorges and experience the world famous Yangtze Dam. Back packing and land tour is not really an option.

I had no expectation and conception what I will encounter; in the end I had the time of my life. Make many friends a along the way and force-fed many courses on history lessons of the Yangtze and her dam. So this is how it all begins:

I book the cruise thru a Chinese web site, the name of the cruise sounded British, and the contact email address was a Chinese address. When I arrive at the dock on the riverfront of the City of Chongqing. I thought, yeah, that is a Chinese cruise no doubt. There is no fan fare by the dock side, there is no uniform cruise staff on the pier to welcome us, the taxi driver not sure where the piers was, when we finally arrived, all we saw was the name of the cruise boat dock in the distance half way out in the river. There was a pontoon bridge to link us there, while we were left at the drop off point, half way up hill, and there were zigzag steps lead us to the river edge, without anyone to offer any help for direction to get there.

At the same time there were skinny and short Chinese coolies struggle to balance the oversize heavy luggage’s; no doubt from foreigners; on their shoulder with only rope and bamboo rod, could be hire to do the heavy job. The scene reminded me of those classic Hollywood movies on Chinese labors, and please do even try to tell me that you don’t know any of these kinds of movies because you are too young. I know you must saw it one time or the other on the Warner classic movie channels:  )

Although the steps were steep, but my luggage’s was light and I am still relatively strong, not that I don’t want to pay 30rmb for the labor, I can’t possibly ask these poor old grandpa to carry my luggage down those stairs. Can the city just built a ramp, and have some carts to push the luggage down to the boat? I suppose they wanted us to have the exotic experience of travel in old China.

However once I got on board, there were a 5 piece horrible brass band playing what ever they think is welcome music. Is this the Titanic? The grand staircase is missing.

The uniformed crews were all over the main gallery, and the crew directors were standing there all line up to welcome us, just like any large cruise line would have done, except this is a small little flat bottom river boat. Never the less the rooms were large, and each cabin had it own balcony and of course it comes with the ever-famous aluminum lawn chair, no white plastic one here.

The boat was professionally ran, the crew were polite and the cruise directors were knowledgeable and friendly. There were few (forced group) organize activities, other than the shore excursions, which you do not have to participate if you found hanging around the boat to watch the crew clean your room or set up your lunch in the dinning room is more fun. Some of the day excursions into the lessor gorges were more scenic than on the main river. The day trip to the infamous yellow mountain is an added highlight to the entire journey. No one should miss it. Especially the hair rising cable car ride is not for the fainted heart.

I also met many like mined international independent travelers on the boat, the cruise put us into the same group, meeting others and exchange travel stories was my favorite pass time. Not to mention the bar crew came fetch me every afternoon no matter where I hide myself, just me to make sure I do not miss their happy hour, as an official taste tester of the so call cocktail specials. As you know the bar is not the same without me, and I spend a lot of time hanging “on” there. I wonder afterward how I found time even go on to the top deck to take in the breath taking scenery. I suppose with only limited Wi-Fi access I had a lot of time on my hand.

Among many of the passengers I make friends with, were a brother and sister team from Thailand; I swear at the beginning they were husband and wife. The brother is a dance expert, he ruled the dance floor every evening, and I learn a few steps from him as well. I also met a lovely couple from Queensland, the wife is an educator, and also an armature photographer, we share many tips on photos shooting, and how to shoot inside the museum without the guard ran after us for our camera.

I also met a very lively retire Asian couple from Sydney, the husband took me under his wing try to teach me Chinese, without much success, because I do not know what he was talking about majority of the time. There was another couple from Perth whom became my quick friend because they were brave enough to try any, I mean 10rmb bottle of Chinese Cabernet Sauvignon. We laugh so hard and share many stories including their son’s adventure in Mongolia.

However the most impressive of them all, were the mother and son passenger, I was so impress of this 20 years old that already ahead in his class at the university, decided to take 6 month leave to enroll at the Shaolin temple to learn Kung Fun from the master. The hard ship he had to endure for the 6 months were unimaginable. There was no Internet, up at 6AM, no heat in the middle of the snowy winter, up in the mountain, living a monk’s life and exercise 15 hours a day. I don’t think I can do that. Not without a Bar.

Then there was one crazy 26 years old 6’5 Danish man, travel across China back pack, his final destination is Australia, so he be a surfer. That is nothing unusual except his amazing appetite for food; every meal is 4 plates full. Then he disappears to his room or just goes work out. I had never seen anyone ate so much in my life. I suppose he got his ticket worth and more. He is tall and blonde and getting a lot of attention everywhere he goes. It was a great sideshow all week long.

There were many stories and many amazing people I met during the cruise, I wish the journey will never end, the boat slowly drifting thru many water edge communities in the mist of the heavy fog, immerse in this amazing dream like landscape, I was living in a dream scape, like a boat going nowhere, just braking waves and making calls to another strange city everyday.

These are cruises designed mainly for retirees, I can never imagine these two 20 something on the boat providing us with many interesting topic, especially on shore excursion while some of the passenger had to employ sedan chairs to go up the hill, they just rush off some where, way head of the team.

If you ever look for a slow boat in China, try this cruise that was ran by an American company out of NY. If you book a bargain Chinese run riverboat, you may end up riding on the sampan, and hang your own laundry out the balcony every evening, that is no joke guaranteed.

Happy travel

Chance Encounter Yangtze River.